Turning point

Our night time drive to Cairns turned out to be just a little more complicated than we had hoped. As I tried to find motels at a reasonable price on the tiny iphone screen, with reception dropping in and out, Eli was finding sleep difficult and getting very restless, while Ben was becoming more and more concerned at the rate of fuel consumption by our overburdened car.
We had to drive past a large grass fire, then wait for what seemed to be the world's longest cane train (especially when you're tired, hungry and in a hurry to get somewhere). We drove through kilometre after kilometre of the destruction caused by cyclone Yasi, lit by an eerie full moon and wondered at the feelings of locals that day in February this year.
When we finally reached Cairns and pulled into the nearest petrol station, having only managed 390 kilometres on a full tank, it became apparent that we had probably driven most of the trip on a rear flat tyre. Ben filled up the car with fuel and tried in vain to inflate the tyre. As we went to drive off, we were flagged down by the over-zealous service station attendant who noticed that the right tail light on the trailer wasn't working (but failed to notice the flat tyre). He insisted on locking the shop (much to the dismay of other customers) while he checked all the other lights and, still oblivious to the fact that it was 10.30pm at night and we had two crying children in the back, then insisted we buy a globe because he had them in the shop. Ben's terse response soon had him and his belt-load of keys jangling all the way back to the counter... "MATE! We just need to get to the f@#*ing motel alright!" and drove off as fast as a heavily laden car, with a flat tyre, towing a trailer, kayak and countless useless bits of camping paraphernalia can go.
We found our motel in the dark and trudged up the stairs with just the bare essentials. In the past, I probably would've been quite excited about the big plasma screen, modern decor, en suite and crisp white sheets, but after so many nights camping it all seemed a bit clinical and I found myself opening the balcony doors faster than the girls could find the TV remote.
We all appreciated a hot shower and just a bit of Friday night AFL before climbing into bed and falling asleep (some faster than others) to the sounds of the city below.
Ben changed the tyre in the morning and we did a bit of research on tyre prices before soaking up the sights, smells and fresh food at Rusty's markets. We settled on the Bob Jane price ($96 less than the first quote) but needed to wait a few days for the tyre to arrive.
In the afternoon, we drove to Kuranda (our base for the next two nights), set up camp surrounded by dense rainforest and booked our Skyrail and Tjapukai experience for the next day.
Possibly the most exciting thing we had done since setting off on our trip six weeks earlier, the Skyrail ride was well worth the expense and we all loved the time spent at the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural centre, learning about traditional foods, hunting techniques, language and dance in the Cairns area prior to European settlement. The girls were particularly inquisitive and Matilda relished the opportunity to get up on stage and join in the dance ceremony!
The next day we found a caravan park at Lake Placid and Ben took the girls to the Lagoon at Cairns, while I shopped around for prices on a Great Barrier Reef cruise and snorkel package (there can be quite significant differences on the same thing!).
Tuesday ended up being quite a momentous day, as we set off on a day trip to our most northerly destination of Cape Tribulation (a bit of a calculated risk, considering we had no spare tyre). While the Daintree rainforest walks were well worth the effort to get there, the Cape itself was far less isolated than we had imagined. As we pulled into the already busy carpark, so did several enormous tour buses, with their passengers of all ages and nationalities.
Tourism is clearly a huge industry in far north Queensland and it's easy to see why now that we've spent a bit of time here. Mountains, beaches, rainforest, coral reefs, trademark Australian wildlife, tablelands and savannah areas are all within a few hours drive and with a great climate at this time of year!
Wednesday was tyre changing day, so we spent the day in the city and at the Lagoon (again) while we waited and purchased some new thongs for everybody (they wear out when you wear them all the time).
The highlight of an already amazing week was definitely our trip to the Great Barrier Reef to do some snorkeling (which none of us had ever done before) and exploring the reef on a glass bottomed boat.
Elouise was first into the water and, with her goggles on, bobbed her head under the water to see hundreds of fish. Ben and I both commented on the marked change in her attitude to new experiences since the beginning of the trip and laughed with her as she giggled each time she surfaced.
We all would've like to spend many more hours in the water - there was something new to see everywhere you looked, but pruny fingers and shivering bodies told us it was time to get out.
The boat trip back was just as spectacular as the trip out, past Fitzroy Island (another on our list of must-do adults only holiday destinations), arriving at the marina to a beautiful sunset, balmy evening and hundreds of birdwing butterflies in the air.
Friday meant it was time to pack up again and begin the long trip south-westish. We had experienced a real affinity for the vibrant, multicultural city of Cairns and as we drove off in the car, Ben saidd he'd be very happy to live there. Elouise quickly responded with "Now, Dad! I want to live there now!".
As we drove south that day, for the first time we had to try hard to contain the feeling of urgency we had at getting back home, even though we still had just under half the trip to go.

All stitched up

Stocked up, fuelled up and filled up after lunch in Mackay, we set off on a short drive north to Cape Hillsborough. Plans to spend only one night there changed at first glance and in the evening, we booked a second. On the second, we booked a third! What a place. Kangaroos and wallabies that come to the beach at dawn, stunning scenery with views to the Whitsunday islands, bushwalking, early morning kayaking, butterflies, countless birds (including the strange bush stone curlews) and an encounter with a snake that was far too close for comfort. I discovered a love for collecting sand dollars and the girls had a great belly-laugh at hundreds of blue soldier crabs scurrying across the sand as we made our way back from a low-tide walk to Wedge Island.
Reluctantly, on the third morning, we left for somewhere north and ended up at Bowen in time for lunch. We weren't all that impressed with Bowen, but decided to stay on anyway and found a caravan park on our second attempt (the first time on the trip we had been told a park was completely booked out).
After collecting some sand (as we have done at every place we have stayed) we were in the car again and heading to Townsville. We tried the Botanic gardens for lunch, but found the entrance closed, so attempted to find another park... eventually ending up close to the city and thankfully stumbling across 'the Strand' with its beautiful waterfall and water park for the kids. We loved Townsville, with its beautiful beaches, manicured gardens and historical buildings and decided to stay. Our plan was to make the most of the next day with a visit to the aquarium, before heading only an hour or two north, but as usual, our plans changed. After a fantastic morning learning about coral reefs, all the amazing fish and other marine life at the aquarium, we lunched on the lawn by the waterfall again and were about to make one last toilet stop before getting in the car, when Matilda fell from a ledge onto the concrete path. By the time Ben carried her to the car, blood covered his arm and Matilda's head, so we decided a trip to the hospital was required. The first aid kit got its first real work out and we spent the afternoon at the Townsville hospital emergency department. Thankfully the cut wasn't as bad as it first looked and a bit of 'superglue', rather than stitches, was all that was required. Matilda was a fantastic patient and lapped up all the attention. She got a sticker for best sense of humour when the lovely young doctor (about to do some neuro obs) said "now Matilda, I'm going to ask you to do some silly things for me..." and before she could finish the rest of her sentence, Matilda had pulled the biggest, silliest face she could think of! "Nothing wrong with her head then", the doctor commented.
By the time we had finished, it was early evening and, after much discussion, we thought we might try our first bit of night-time driving... all the way to Cairns. We figured the girls would sleep and it would be easier than setting up camp somewhere in the dark... well, that's what we thought... but my timed internet session is coming to an end, so you'll have to wait for the next instalment!

Well, after spending two weeks surrounded by all that nature has to offer, the contrast couldn't have been more striking as we approached the Gold Coast! Initially, we were quite excited about making it to Queensland and the improvement in the roads was noticeable almost immediately. Our excitement soon turned to horror as we drove through the streets looking for a caravan park. We had stopped in Byron Bay for lunch and thought that that was busy!
We ended up pitching our tent (one of only two in the park) beneath two towering apartment blocks in an area near the only remnant of natural bushland in Burleigh Heads. Ironically, in pride of place in the office was a picture, showing the same park in the 1950s, covered in tents, with the beach and the bush in the background. Perhaps once, it was a place to come for a holiday.
We had dinner with my cousin and his young family and the following day, set off for Tin Can Bay. We passed through Maryborough and Nambour and were surprised to see train tracks passing right alongside the main streets. We began to see more and more sugarcane fields and pulled over to watch the trucks loading a train.
In Tin Can Bay we stayed in a caravan park that felt like it hadn't been changed since the 1970s and enjoyed exploring the mud flats while the tide was out. In the morning we hand fed the dolphins (for $5!) and were in shorts at 1030am! The weather had definitely begun to change.
From there we drove to our next farm stay near Agnes Waters and although the surrounding beaches were stunning, the dusty, sandy, cattle farm that we pulled into was far removed from the previous farm stay.
We enjoyed our time with Richard and BJ the dog and his cattle that came freely to the car or front door and met a couple more German backpackers. There was plenty of hard work to do, but made easier with visits to the surf beach in the afternoons. Our last night was spent at the 1770 caravan park, our tent pitched right on the beach! We enjoyed freshly caught fish and hot chips on the headland and watched the sunset from the comfort of our car. After dark, we chatted to family on the phone to the sound of a crackling fire and waves in the distance.
We set off reasonably early for another unplanned day and a spare-of-the-moment decision to follow the signs to the Rockhampton Botanic Gardens, led us to an amazing playground for the girls under towering Kauri pines. We ended up spending several hours there, wandering through the Banyan figs, exotic fruit trees and the zoo - complete with bird aviary, chimpanzees and dingoes - all free! With not much of the day left, we decided to stay near Emu Park and pitched our tent at another fantastic site... unfortunately ruined by the noisy campers next door, who have left us desperately hoping that not all Rockhampton residents enjoy burping, farting, drinking and smoking (in between bursts of violent coughing) until the wee hours of the morning!
We were up with the Kookaburras and after seriously considering egging their tent or telling Matilda she could yell as loud as she liked, we packed up as quickly as was humanly possible, determined not to let them ruin our experience of Emu Park. Brekky by the beach, a visit to the singing ship and the spectacular 'Shell World' was exactly what was required. We had a great time marvelling at the collection of more than 20,000 shells and it was nearly lunchtime before we set off for our next goal of Sarina.
We didn't quite make it. Everyone was feeling a bit ratty and after lunch at Marlborough, we encountered some signs to a caravan park at Clairview and decided to follow them. What a find! Nestled right on the foreshore on a largely untouched stretch of beach was a very authentic, no frills, u-beaut Aussie caravan park, complete with a bar serving beer and the main meal for the night? Corned beef and veges!
Ben got right into the swing of things and cracked open his first coconut that had washed up on the beach, but not before the conversation with Rob (from Newstead!) and some fishing (which only resulted in a snag).
A minor mishap involving a tent peg and a water pipe was averted with the help of two permanent residents 'Bunga'and 'Bill' (neither of which looked like they had shaved or worn shoes for the last 35 years) and we set off the next morning for lunch at Mackay.
Mackay seemed like a town on the move and overall we were impressed with our short visit, but it only convinced us more, that we are really enjoying the small towns - the less commercialised, the better. It is only then that we feel we are experiencing the 'real' Queensland and the characters that call it home.
One of the observations we have made is that, for all their rough exteriors - faces hardened by sun and tragedy and sheer hard work, the men that work the land or live closely with their natural environments seem, paradoxically, to be more open with their feelings and sharing their stories, than some of those we've encountered in our everyday lives. Is it, we wondered, that we model our own behaviour on what is around us? That, in a modern, electronic, mechanical world, we see death or loss or emotions as 'failure' or 'malfunctions' that need to be fixed, rather than a normal, natural cycle of life. Maybe. Or is it just that we have more time to listen?

All good things...

It might seem ever so slightly improbable, but as we pulled into the driveway of our farmstay near Coffs Harbour two weeks ago, a double rainbow appeared from the clouds and seemed to end right on Rick and Annie's property. (I am not making this up!). It was to signal the beginning, in Ben's words, of the "best two weeks EVER".
The first word that came to mind, as we settled into our surroundings, was diversity. The huge number of birds was immediately apparent (Rick says more than 250 species frequent their property each year), as was the plant life, weather (everything from sun to frost) and people. In addition to Rick, Annie and their extended families, we met two amazing young women from Germany who were also staying on the property and thoroughly enjoyed the exchange of culture, language and philosophies that their presence made possible.
It was invigorating to work physically in such beautiful surroundings, with such inspiring people and we were convinced that we felt much better on a mostly vegetarian diet. Ben really enjoyed working with Rick and Richard (the carpenter) on such a unique home, with its enormous 500 year old turpentine trunk as the centrepiece of the frame, the curved ceiling and medieval doors. He also got pretty excited about using a broad knife and Rick's collection of musical instruments (including an Appalachian dulcimer).
I had a great time working in the garden and around the house and the girls had an absolute ball. In the first few days, Elouise kept saying "I've been here before, Mum. I really have. I remember everything". A sign she felt right at home. Matilda loved feeding the chooks through the wire, while chatting and singing to them, and Eli was always up early to help milk 'Surprise' the cow, with her new companion 'Eli' (coincidence) the dog right by her side. They learnt about bananas, paw paws and caring for horses, cows and poultry. Unfortunately, they also learnt about death as we buried a much-loved rooster one morning, following a probable visit from a quoll.
We learnt lots from Annie's 11 year old son, Brennan, about the local (and not so local) flora and fauna and I was particularly embarrassed when I asked, while sipping my coffee one morning, what the red berries were that he was picking. "Coffee beans" he said, perplexed.
We encountered an antechinus, satisfied a leech and supported the life cycle of a couple of ticks, marvelled at a pair of Jabiru storks and even convinced ourselves of the existence of the 'Glenreagh Gimp' (a two-footed, child-sized, hairy, half-man, half-possum that danced on the roof of the caravan each night).
The highlight of our stay though, was a 50 minute walk through largely untouched bush to get to a beautiful waterfall and rock pool near Glenreagh. Metaphors were in abundance as Elouise refused guidance and was determined to choose her own path through the rugged terrain, often proving she had more sense than me and only occasionally requiring assistance to negotiate a particularly difficult obstacle.
We really did not want our stay to end, as all good things must. All in all this two weeks was everything we had imagined it might have been. It fulfilled all our hopes of revitalizing, refuelling, reconnecting, remembering, exchanging, creating, learning and living. Rick, Annie, Briony, Brennan, Frauke and Lena, we cannot thank you enough.